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Bethlehem, New Hampshire, United States
E-mail contact: randonneur8@yahoo.com | Facebook: facebook.com/1HappyHikerNH

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31 August 2014

Hiking in the High Peaks Region of the Adirondacks

INTRODUCTION:

In mid August 2014, I enjoyed 5 days of hiking in the High Peaks Region of the Adirondacks.  During this timeframe, I was able to squeeze in treks to 9 destinations.  This region has a mindboggling array of hikes from which to choose.  While sorting through this huge collection, I tried to choose destinations that would provide an assortment of high elevation and low elevation hikes, as well as a variety of locations within the High Peaks Region.  The map below provides an overview of the places where I finally chose to hike.
Map showing places where I hiked (Click/tap to enlarge map)
These hikes were not done as an overnight backpacking experience.  Instead, my wife and I stayed at a place in the Village of Saranac Lake, NY.  It provided a centralized location for my hikes, as well as a setting for the types of things that my wife enjoys doing.

A strong case could be made for writing 9 separate blog reports for each of the hikes.  However, I've opted to prepare just one rather lengthy report by considering this as one BIG hiking adventure that just so happened to span a 5-day period of time.  I suppose this is a rather odd way of looking at it, but so be it!

And, just one other tidbit of information is worth mentioning in this introduction section.  This report will make frequent mention of mountains on the Adirondack 46ers list, and on the Saranac Lake 6ers list.  Shown below are links that provide a listing of the peaks on those lists.


THE HIKES:

1) Phelps Mountain (4,160 ft) is one of the mountains on the Adirondack 46ers list.  It  provides splendid views of Mts. Marcy and Colden, plus many other mountains in the Adirondack High Peaks Region.

For details about hiking to Phelps, click HERE.

Most memorable aspect:  This was my first time to climb an Adirondack 46er peak!

Phelps Photos:
View from Phelps showing Mt. Colden (left) and peaks in the MacIntyre Range (right)
Another view from Phelps: NY's highest peak (Mt. Marcy) is on horizon at far right

2) Ampersand Mountain (3,353 ft) takes its name from nearby Ampersand Creek, so named because it twists and turns like the ampersand symbol.  Although Ampersand isn't one of the high peaks on the Adirondack 46ers list, it is one of the six peaks included on the Saranac Lake 6ers list.

For details about hiking to Ampersand, click HERE.

Most memorable aspect:  At 8:30 AM, I was first person at the trailhead parking lot and as a result I had the entire mountain to myself for about half an hour before droves of hikers began to arrive at this very popular destination.  When I arrived back at the trailhead, the parking lot was filled, plus cars were parked on the shoulder of the road!

Ampersand Photos:
Misty morning view of Ampersand Lake with Seward Range in background
Another typical vista from the bare summit of Ampersand Mountain
3) Giant Mountain (4,627 ft) Giant Mountain is the twelfth highest peak in New York State, and as one might suspect, it's on the Adirondack 46ers list.  The present-day name is shortened from its original moniker of "Giant of the Valley", which was bestowed due to its huge presence overlooking the Keene Valley.

For details about hiking to Giant Mountain, click HERE.

Most memorable aspect:  I was enthralled by the many views available while hiking along the very well maintained Ridge Trail to Giant Mountain.  And, I was amazed at what a relatively easy hike it was to this 4,627 ft peak.

Giant Photos:
Trailside view en route to Giant Mtn.  Chapel Pond (left); Great Range on horizon
Another trailside vista with peaks in Dix Range on horizon at center/left
Looking down Roaring Brook Valley from top of Giant Mtn; nearby peaks in Great Range are just left of center
View of Rocky Peak Ridge from a point near the top of Giant Mtn
4) Hopkins Mountain (3,156 ft) provides a spectacular view.  On a clear day, there are reportedly 22 major peaks that are visible, and some say that it has the best view of the Adirondack High Peaks from a non-high peak summit.

For details about hiking to Hopkins Mountain, click HERE.

Most memorable aspect:  The views were indeed outstanding, and I was totally surprised by the beauty of the mountaintop itself.

Hopkins Photos:
Nearing the summit ledge on Hopkins Mountain
Top of Giant Mountain (on horizon), as viewed from Hopkins Mountain
Loved this view from Hopkins (Ausable Lakes Valley with Colvin Range on left and Great Range on right)
5) Big Crow Mountain (2,815 ft) was a short hike that I did after a much sooner than expected completion of the hike to Hopkins Mountain.  The hike to Big Crow was done rather hurriedly, and as a result I really didn't have time to do it justice.  Nor did I have time to visit a nearby peak named Little Crow, nor to do what appears to be an interesting 5.6 mile loop that leads over the Nun-da-ga-o Ridge, plus a peak named Weston Mountain.

For details about hiking to Big Crow (and the 5.6 mile loop), click HERE.

Most memorable aspect:  Knowing that my time was limited, I opted to access Big Crow from the trailhead located at the end of O'Toole Lane where it's only about a 0.5 mile hike to the summit.  However, the impressive steepness of the climb was unexpected!

Big Crow Photos:

Views were great from Big Crow, but only managed to take one worthwhile photo which highlights a brilliant blue sky with nice cloud formations!
6) St. Regis Mountain (2,874 ft) is located at the center of the Saint Regis Canoe Area in the Adirondacks.  It is one of the six peaks included on the Saranac Lake 6ers list.  Many people consider the view from St. Regis as being among the best in the Adirondacks.

For details about hiking to St. Regis Mountain, click HERE.

Most memorable aspect:  As often happens in the mountains, the weather wasn't as nice as it was predicted to be.  As a result, my viewing experience was less than ideal.  However, it was still a very enjoyable hike, and despite the hazy conditions, I can understand why many would consider the views from St. Regis as being among the best in the Adirondacks.

St. Regis Photos:
A typical vista from St. Regis showing many lakes in foreground with high peaks on the horizon
Another of the many expansive vistas from St. Regis Mountain
7) McKenzie Mountain (3,861 ft) is excluded as one of the ADK 46er high peaks, even though it's actually higher than Mt. Couchsachraga (3,820 ft) which is a 46er peak!  Regardless, McKenzie is included as one of the six peaks on the Sarancac Lake 6ers list.

For details about hiking to McKenzie Mountain, click HERE.

Most memorable aspect:  I knew beforehand that this mountain has a double peak.  Nonetheless, I was somewhat astounded by the steep descent from the lower peak and subsequent steep ascent of the main peak.  And then I was hit with the realization that this would need to be done in reverse on the return leg of the hike!  Fortunately, I like scrambling over steep ledges, and this hike certainly provided a lot of that!

McKenzie Photos:
Looking at the main peak of McKenzie Mountain from the top of its lower peak
This was the misty view that greeted me upon arrival at the top of McKenzie Mtn!
Eventually the mist dissipated enough to get a few views, such as this one looking  toward Lake Placid.
This photo attempts to show the steepness of some of the ledges along the trail to McKenzie Mountain.  The trail is at the bottom of the big black hole in the center of the photo!
8) Haystack Mountain (2,878 ft) is located near the Village of Saranac Lake and is a considerably lower mountain than the more famous Mt. Haystack which stands at 4,960 ft and is one of the high peaks on the ADK 46ers list.

For details about hiking to Haystack Mountain, click HERE.

Most memorable aspect:  Although viewing conditions were overcast and hazy, the vistas from this mountain far exceeded my expectations.  I would definitely consider making a return visit, but only on a bright sunny day!

Haystack Photos:

This rather hazy view from Haystack features Mt. Marcy on horizon (right of center) which is flanked by peaks in the Great Range on left
A highly zoomed image of some peaks in Great Range (Gothics, Saddleback, etc), as seen from Haystack
9) Silver Lake Bog Preserve actually offers two hikes in one.  The trek begins with the Bog Walk which is a 0.5 mile segment of very well-constructed boardwalk.  You then transition to a 0.6 mile hike along the Bluff Trail which is a conventional hiking trail that leads through a hardwood forest to a bluff overlooking Silver Lake.  From this viewpoint, some of the more conspicuous peaks that can be seen are Whiteface Mountain, Catamount, and Silver Lake Mountain.

For details about hiking at the Silver Lake Bog Preserve, click HERE.

Most memorable aspect:  The half mile of boardwalk at the beginning of this hike was a remarkable piece of workmanship.  And, the vista from the bluff was another case of where my expectations were far exceeded.

Silver Lake Bog Preserve Photos:

View from the bluff overlooking Silver Lake.  On distant horizon are Whiteface Mtn and Ester Mtn
Typical scene along boardwalk at beginning of hike at Silver Lake Bog Preserve
~ THE END ~

14 August 2014

Hiking in Vermont: Mts. Abraham, Ellen, Killington Peak, plus Texas Falls

Recently my wife and I recently spent several days in Vermont's Mad River Valley and surrounding areas.  The Mad River flows north through the towns of Warren, Waitsfield, and Moretown before entering the Winooski River just downstream from Middlesex. This location is ideal for hiking to peaks along the central portion of the Long Trail, which is the oldest long-distance hiking trail in America.

As part of this mini-vacation, I hiked to Mt. Abraham and Mt. Ellen as a 10.5 mile traverse. (My wife kindly dropped me off at the Long Trail's Lincoln Gap trailhead, and picked me up 6 hours later at the Jerusalem trailhead on Jim Dwire Road.)  I also did a separate hike to Killington Peak as a 7.4 mile "out and back" trek via the Bucklin Trail.  Normally, I pay very little attention to the various hiking lists.  However, having hiked to these three peaks means that I've now visited all five mountains on the Vermont 4,000 footer list.  On other occasions, I had hiked to the other two 4K peaks (Camel's Hump in August 2012; Mt. Mansfield in June 2014).

During this Summer of 2014 in northern New England, there have been very few days with crystal clear views.  The days that I hiked to Mts. Abraham, Ellen and Killington Peak were no exception.  The distant views were restricted by hazy conditions.  But were these hikes still enjoyable?  Oh yes!

Besides the solo hikes that I did to the 4K peaks, my wife and I jointly explored many miles of scenic back roads in the Mad River Valley.  Also, we visited Texas Falls (near Hancock, VT) which has long been a favorite Green Mountain National Forest attraction.  There was very little water flowing over the falls on the day of our visit, nonetheless it was still quite an attractive spot.

Shown below are some photos taken during this mini-vacation in Vermont.  They are organized into four groups: 1) Traverse of Mts. Abraham and Ellen; 2) Hike to Killington Peak; 3) Texas Falls; 4) Back Road Journeys.

1) TRAVERSE OF MTS. ABRAHAM AND ELLEN:
Map showing route of traverse
Is this why they call them the "Green Mountains" of Vermont?  There were several beautiful segments such as this along the Long Trail.
One of several nicely constructed stone stairways along the Long Trail
Photo taken looking downward at the steep rocky scramble that I'd just climbed on the final approach to  Mt. Abraham.  Wouldn't be much fun if icy, but was a fun challenge with the dry conditions I had.
This westward view from the top of Mt. Abraham was pleasant enough on the day of my hike.   However, Lake Champlain and the Adirondacks are just barely discernible.  This vista would be truly awesome on a crystal clear Autumn day when the lake and NY mountains were clearly visible.
Wreckage of the Cessna 182N  that crashed near the summit of Mt. Abraham on June 28, 1973.  The pilot was the only person aboard and he survived the crash.
Vista from Lincoln Peak where the Long Trail skirts the top of ski trails
Vista from Mt. Ellen where the Long Trail skirts the top of ski trails
Start of my descent via the Jerusalem Trail
Large segments of the Jerusalem Trail wind through beautiful forestland
One segment of the Jerusalem Trail has a "superhighway" of tubing to harvest the maple sap.

2) HIKE TO KILLINGTON PEAK
Map showing my route
The Bucklin Trail is among the nicest trails I've ever hiked.  It is well maintained, and it has gentle grades as well as excellent footing throughout its course from the trailhead to the junction with the Long Trail.  However, please be advised that reaching the summit of Killington Peak involves hiking a 0.2 mile spur trail that is very steep and rocky.

Also noteworthy is the minor discrepancy between the mileage on the signage versus that shown on the map.  I suspect this is due to a combination of factors.  For one thing, it appears that there has been some recent rerouting of the trail, probably due to damage from Tropical Storm Irene.  Also, the sign shown in the next photo is located along the trail at a point that is at least a tenth of a mile beyond the trailhead parking lot.  This means that mileage measured from the sign would be less than if it was measured from the trailhead.
Sign located about a tenth of a mile from trailhead parking lot
Although the summit of Killington Peak provides excellent views for miles across Vermont and surrounding States, it is bristling with a variety of communication towers, and is teeming with tourists who have ridden to the top of the mountain via the K-1 Express Gondola
Photo shows some of the many communication towers atop Killington Peak.  (For privacy reasons, decided against posting a photo of the countless tourists enjoying their day on Killington Peak.)
This photo taken from Killington Peak isn't particularly remarkable.  Just happened to like the "choo-choo train" lineup of clouds.  It's almost as if they are gliding along some invisible track!

3) TEXAS FALLS:

Texas Falls is easy to access.  It's located within the Texas Falls Recreation area off Route 125, near the village of Hancock, VT.  It has long been a favorite Green Mountain National Forest attraction.  This was an attractive spot to visit, despite the fact that there was very little water flowing over the falls on the day of our visit.  The brook at the base of the falls was very picturesque.
Texas Falls (near Hancock, VT)
Texas Falls Brook at the base of the Texas Falls

4) BACK ROAD JOURNEYS:

My wife and I traveled many scenic byways during our visit in the Mad River Valley area.  Shown below are photos taken from the Moretown Common Road located just east of Moretown, VT.
The Vermont 4K peak known as 'Camel's Hump' is seen at the top of this photo as it peers over a nearby ridgeline.
Camel's Hump is also seen in this snapshot, but less prominent.  The flock of birds seen flying at the far right of the photo was totally unexpected.  They came into view just as I was about to push the shutter button!

~ THE END ~  

03 August 2014

Speckled Mountain (Maine): A Simple Out and Back Hike

Speckled Mountain is located in the Evans Notch area of Maine.  It's a destination that I had previously visited, but had never hiked to this 2,906 ft mountain via the Spruce Hill Trail.  And so, the main purpose of this journey was merely to experience a trail that was new to me.  It didn't matter to me that hazy conditions would likely mean that views at the top of the mountain would be less than ideal.  The thrill of hiking a new route was more than enough to inspire me to go forth with this adventure!

The Spruce Hill Trail shares a parking lot with East Royce Trail, and the trail begins on the opposite side of the road from the parking lot.  At 0.6 miles, the trail enters the Caribou-Speckled Mountain Wilderness.  And at 1.9 miles from the trailhead, the trail ends at the Bickford Brook Trail which is then hiked for 1.2 miles to reach the summit of Speckled Mountain.

And so, if you were doing a simple "out and back" hike, the round trip mileage would be 6.2 miles.  However, for my trek, I tacked on a little side-trip by descending the Blueberry Ledge Trail for a short distance to access a viewpoint.  Besides adding a few hundred feet of reverse elevation gain, this also added about an extra mile.  Therefore, my round-trip mileage was probably just a tad over 7 miles.

Of course, rather than doing a simple "out and back" trek, one could do a loop hike to Speckled Mountain.  Although a loop could be constructed using the Spruce Hill Trailhead as the starting and ending point, it would be much more practical to fashion a loop that began and ended at the Bickford Brook trailhead at Brickett Place.

For those readers who are interested in this type of thing, my route of travel is shown on the map below.
Map (click to enlarge) showing trails used to access Speckled Mountain.  The purple arrow at the bottom shows my little side trip to access a viewpoint along the Blueberry Ridge Trail. 
My visit to Speckled Mountain was a perfect case of where it was more about the journey than the destination.  As expected, the vistas of the surrounding mountains were very hazy.  However, for anyone of a mindset similar to mine, you know that invariably there are many interesting things to see along the route that are close at hand.  On this particular trek, there were a wide variety of colorful mushrooms, and other picturesque trailside features that were eye-pleasing.  And to please the palate, there was an abundance of ripe blueberries!

Before presenting some snapshots taken during my hike, here are two links that might be of interest to a few readers.  One link directs you to a paper written by Steve Smith which provides a wealth of information about Speckled Mountain (click HERE).  The other link directs you to a report about a hike I did to Speckled Mountain in 2009 (click HERE).  It was done during the colorful Autumn foliage season, and it involved a different route from the one described in this report.

Here are the photos:

Entering the Caribou Speckled Mountain Wilderness
A trail sign within the wilderness area where regulations prohibit inclusion of mileage since it's thought to detract from the backwoods experience where map reading, compass, and orienteering skills should be used to promote a closer relationship to the land.
The Bickford Brook Trail is easy going.  It travels over the remnants of the old access road for the fire tower that used to be on top of Speckled Mountain.
The concrete pylons are all that remains of the fire tower that once crowned Speckled Mountain. The insert seen at the bottom left is a photo of the tower that was taken in the 1980s.
Another photo taken from the site of the old fire tower.
Zoomed photo showing a grainy image of the massive cliff on Red Rock Mountain.  This is a fabulous hiking destination in the vicinity of Speckled Mountain.  (Click HERE to read a report about a hike to Red Rock.)
Okay, as can be seen from the photos shown above, the vistas of the surrounding mountains were hazy on this particular day.  However, as mentioned earlier, this hike provided other interesting sights that were close at hand, such as those shown in the following snapshots.

Photo collage showing a sampling of the wide variety of colorful mushrooms seen all along the route.  (Technically, the specimen shown at lower left is a wildflower, rather than a mushroom.  Click HERE to read more about it.)
An idyllic segment of trail lined with mushrooms and brilliant green moss
A trailside vignette of blueberry, and mountain cranberry, with raindeer moss interspersed
This photo features mountain cranberry and raindeer moss surrounding a pool of water.
There was an abundance of ripe blueberries at various points along my route.  It took only about 2-minutes to gather the handful of berries shown in this photo.
The next two snapshots were taken during my short side trip to a viewpoint along the Blueberry Ridge Trail.  The distant views from here were just as hazy as they had been from the top of Speckled Mountain. Regardless, this might provide a general idea of the attractive views that would be available on a clear day.
Westward view from Blueberry Ridge Trail looking toward mountains in the Baldface-Royce Range
Southward view from Blueberry Ridge Trail looking toward Kezar Lake
To sum it up, although this was merely a simple 'out and back' hike, it was still delightful.  It provided the thrill of traveling a route that was new to me.  Also, the variety and beauty of the trailside scenes more than compensated for the hazy conditions that diminished the distant views.


~ THE END ~