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Bethlehem, New Hampshire, United States
E-mail contact: randonneur8@yahoo.com | Facebook: facebook.com/1HappyHikerNH

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30 September 2014

Hiking in Maine: Little Kineo, Little Spencer, Little Squaw, and Eagle Rock

INTRODUCTION:

Delightfully remote!  That two word combination immediately comes to mind as an apt description of the Moosehead Lake Region of Maine.  When I hiked in this gorgeous location just a few weeks ago for the very first time, I knew that a return visit was inevitable. (Please click HERE to read about hikes done on my previous visit to this area.)

And so, in late September, near the peak of Autumn foliage, my wife (Cheri) and I journeyed back to Greenville, ME to the same lakeside lodging where we had previously stayed in July.   While I'm off doing my hiking adventures, Cheri enjoys partaking of the natural beauty at the lakeshore, and also taking walks to visit the quaint town of Greenville.

For readers who might be unfamiliar with the location of Moosehead Lake, you can see from the map shown below that north of Greenville there is a vast expanse of 'nothingness', and this is the setting for the hikes that are described in this report.
Map showing location of Greenville, ME and Moosehead Lake
The next map shows the location of the 4 hikes that I did during my second visit to the Moosehead Lake Region of Maine.
Map showing location of 4 hikes done in the Moosehead Lake Region of Maine
Getting to the trailheads for all four of these hikes involved many miles of travel on remote gravel roads which are rough, but are easily navigable without the need for a high clearance vehicle.  You can expect occasional encounters with logging trucks which necessitates pulling to the side of the road to allow them the right of way.  Many segments of these remote roadways are quite scenic, as shown in the photo below.
A segment of one of many remote roads traveled en route to trailheads
When traveling to the trailheads for Little Kineo and Little Spencer you pass through a isolated settlement named Kotadjo.  It's about 19 miles north of Greenville, ME, and it's where the paved road ends.  There are two prominent signs along the roadway as you enter this small settlement (see photo below).
Two signs seen upon entering the settlement of Kotadjo

DESCRIPTION OF THE 4 HIKES:

1) LITTLE KINEO:  This mountain only stands at 1,927 ft, and there is only about a 500 ft elevation gain over the 1.0 mile length of the hike.  There are some nice views, and it serves as a nice warm-up to the hike to the much more challenging climb to Little Spencer Mountain.

Being located in relatively close proximity to the North Bay of Moosehead Lake, the ledges on Little Kineo provide some excellent vistas that showcase the vastness and remoteness of this huge body of water (see photo below).
One of many views of massive Moosehead Lake as seen from ledges on Little Kineo Mountain
Little Kineo also offers a view that shows a unique juxtaposition of the Katahdin Range and Little Spencer and Big Spencer mountains (see photo below). 
View from Little Kineo Mountain: Katahdin Range is in distance on far left;  Little Spencer is in foreground at center of photo, and Big Spencer is behind and to the right

2) LITTLE SPENCER:  As you approach the trailhead for Little Spencer, there is a nice roadside view of this mountain.  However, there is an even better roadside view (see photo below) if you travel to the Little Kineo trailhead as part of your day's adventure in this delightfully remote area.
Roadside view of Little Spencer while en route to Little Kineo trailhead
The next photo shows signage at the beginning of the trail to Little Spencer.  Regarding the odd name of "Kokadjoweemgwasebemsis" that is included on this sign, I'm uncertain if this is true, but am told that it's Abenaki Indian wordage that translates to "Upside Down Kettle Mountain".
Signage at beginning of trail to Little Spencer Mountain
The elevation of Little Spencer is just over 3,000 ft, which is only about 200 ft shorter than its companion peak named Big Spencer.  There is about an 1,800 ft elevation gain over the 2.0 mile length of the hike to the mountaintop.

However, the length of the hike and the elevation gain fails to paint a complete picture of this trek.  Along the route, you encounter many segments that are extremely steep with poor footing, and there are many boulder fields that must be traversed.  In addition, there are a few chimneys to be scaled, one of which is 70-ft high.  It's nearly impossible to negotiate this rocky chute without some use of the sturdy rope that is securely tied to a tree at the top.

Below is a composite photo.  The left panel shows a portion of the 70-ft high chimney with its fixed rope.  The right panel shows one of the many boulder fields along the route.  And, just as a side note, the chimney is much steeper and more intimidating than is depicted in this photo!
Left panel: 70-ft high chimney with fixed rope.  Right panel: one of several boulder fields along the route to Little Spencer
You are amply rewarded for your efforts in climbing to the top of Little Spencer.  There are abundant views that are breathtaking, such as the one shown below.  In this particular vista, I could pick out Little Kineo which I had climbed prior to tackling Little Spencer.  (Little Kineo is the bump on the horizon at far right of the photo.)
Just one of many breathtaking vistas from Little Spencer Mountain.  (Spencer Pond is in foreground; just to right of center is Kineo Mountain with the huge cliff face; Little Kineo Mountain is the bump on the horizon at far right of photo.)
Although conditions were a bit hazy, there was still an awesome vista from Little Spencer that included Big Spencer looming nearby with the Katahdin Range off in the distance to its left (see photo below).
From Little Spencer there is this awesome vista of Big Spencer looming nearby with the Katahdin Range off in the distance to its left

3) LITTLE SQUAW MOUNTAIN:  This mountain is also known as "Little Moose Mountain".  It has a long and undulating ridgeline that runs for several miles with a high point reaching 2,126 ft of elevation.  The AMC Maine Mountain Guide describes several approaches to a variety of hikes at this location.  I opted to start from the north trailhead, and then do a 3.8 mile loop hike.

Although Little Squaw is mostly a wooded mountain, it offers fine views from ledges overlooking Big and Little Moose Ponds, as shown in the photos below.
Vista from ledges on Little Squaw Mountain overlooking Little Moose Pond.  In the distance is a portion of Moosehead Lake, and on the horizon (to the right) is Little Spencer and Big Spencer mountains.
This vista from ledges on Little Squaw Mountain is overlooking a small unnamed pond between Big Moose Pond and Little Moose Pond.

4) EAGLE ROCK:  The long ridgeline of Big Moose Mountain extends northwest for several miles where it eventually culminates at a large bare outcropping known as Eagle Rock (2,350 ft elevation).

This destination can still be accessed from the traditional trail off Burnham Pond Road, which is described in the current edition of AMC's Maine Mountain Guide.  However, the Maine Conservation Corps has just recently completed a brand new trail to Eagle Rock.

To reach the trailhead, you drive about 5 miles west from Greenville and then turn left off ME Rt. 6/15 onto North Road (gravel) and travel 3.6 miles where you bear right onto East Moore Bog Road and travel another 1.4 miles to the trailhead.

My GPS track of the new trail is shown on the map below.
My GPS track of new trail to Eagle Rock
Since I've never hiked the traditional trail off Burnham Pond Road, no comparisons can be made between it and the new trail off East Moore Bog Road.  However, it can be said that I was very impressed with the excellent job that the Maine Conservation Corps has done with creating this new route to Eagle Rock.  The corridor is prominently blazed, and there are well-constructed bog bridges and rock stairways along the route.  Also, the new trail includes access to Raven Ledge which is a viewpoint that is not along the route of the traditional trail to Eagle Rock.

The length of the new trail is 3.7 miles, which is over twice as long as the 1.5 mile distance of the pre-existing trail.  Regardless, the new trail leads you through woods that are diverse and pleasant.  The majority of the corridor consists of easy grades with only a few segments that are steep, but short lived.  Hiking at a moderate pace, my round-trip hiking time (excluding time spent on Eagle Rock) was just under 4 hours.

Shown below are just of few of the photos taken while hiking to Eagle Rock via the new trail.
A typical segment of the new trail to Eagle Rock
Raven Ledge: Peering over the edge of the ledge
Eagle Rock:  Looking down the steep bare slab that was scaled to reach the top of this massive rock formation
Just one of many spectacular views from Eagle Rock.  This particular vista is looking northward showing a portion of Indian Pond in the foreground (left), with wedge-shaped Mt. Kineo on the distant horizon (center), and on the far right is a portion of Moosehead Lake and the rounded hump of Little Spencer Mountain.
This photo taken from Eagle Rock shows nothing in particular.  I simply liked the variety of colors and textures provided by Autumn foliage, bare ledge, and water.
To sum it up, I look forward to many other hiking adventures on future visits to the Moosehead Lake Region of Maine!

13 September 2014

Terrific Hiking in the Bigelow Mountain Range (Maine)

The author and motivational speaker named Jim Rohn is credited with the quote: “Finding is reserved for those that search.

The above quote came to mind when my wife and I recently searched for a place to stay in Maine.  We wanted to be situated on a lake.  This would provide my wife with the opportunity to enjoy leisurely nature walks and to read novels while sitting along the lakefront. The venue we sought would also need to provide easy access to hikes that I wanted to do.

As a result of our diligent search, we found lakeside lodging in Rangeley, Maine where we enjoyed three magnificent days.  Upon arrival, we familiarized ourselves with the area by driving around and stopping at roadside pull offs to admire the abundance of lake and mountain vistas that this area has to offer.

One of many roadside vista of lakes and mountains in vicinity of Rangeley, Maine
Also on our first day there, we did a joint hike along the Cascade Stream Gorge Trail.  Here we were treated to many picturesque cascades, one of which is shown in the next photo.
Photo taken while hiking along the Cascade Stream Gorge Trail
It also so happened that on our first night, there was a full moon which was shining brightly even before sunset!
Full moon at late evening, as viewed from our lakeside lodging at Rangeley, Maine
Each  morning, it was a treat to awaken to the sounds of a variety of water birds, including the haunting call of loons.
Early morning vista from our lakeside lodging at Rangeley, Maine
Although it was definitely delightful to spend a few hours each morning and each evening at this lovely lakeside location, it was equally pleasurable to head out each day for hikes in the surrounding mountains.

Bigelow Mountain Range (Avery Peak and West Peak):

My primary hiking destination for this trip was the Bigelow Mountain Range which consists of a long ridgeline with several named peaks (Cranberry Peak; The Horns; West Peak; Avery Peak; Little Bigelow Mountain).  The Appalachian Trail traverses nearly the entire Bigelow Range, other than a segment at the western end where Cranberry Peak is located.

I hiked to the two highest summits in the Bigelow Range, i.e. Avery Peak (4,088 ft) and West Peak (4,145 ft).  This adventure was an 'out and back' hike via the Safford Brook Trail and Appalachian Trail.  The round trip distance was 9.8 miles, and it took about 6 hours at a leisurely pace.  For anyone who has never hiked the Safford Brook Trail, I would highly recommend it.  It's a well maintained trail with good footing and is never overly steep.  However, be advised that reaching this trailhead entails many miles of driving on gravel roads with intermittent rough spots that can really slow you down.

And so, presented below are just a few of the many photos taken during my trek to Avery Peak and West Peak.
Approaching the summit of Avery Peak 
The rock outcropping at right of photo is actual summit of Avery Peak.  My next destination (West Peak) is seen rising in the distance at center of photo.
Between Avery Peak and West Peak you pass through Avery Col where there is a shelter, plus tent sites, and abundant signage!
Upon arrival at West Peak, I snapped this photo looking back at Avery Peak.
This photo is similar to the one shown above, but it includes the summit sign for West Peak.
Looking westward from West Peak are "The Horns".  (This will be my hiking destination on the next visit to this area!)
Along the ridgeline, there are many awesome vistas overlooking Flagstaff Lake, such as the NE view shown here
On my way back home to our lakeside lodging, I made a short side trip by driving to the northwest corner of Flagstaff Lake to take a look at the Bigelow Range as viewed over this beautiful body of water.
Bigelow Mountain Range as viewed over Flagstaff Lake
Burnt Mountain:

For the one cloudy day that we experienced during our stay, I opted to do a 5.6 mile (round-trip) hike to the 3,595 ft peak named Burnt Mountain (also called Burnt Hill on some maps).  With a bit of searching, you can find a few legal spots to park near the hotel located at the Sugarloaf Ski and Golf Resort.  You'll then need to walk a short distance to the trailhead which is located at the end of a private road.  Oddly enough, the name of this private road is Bigelow Mountain Road, even though there is a road just to south of it named Burnt Mountain Road.  Go figure!
The hiking trail quickly leaves the urbanized resort environment and leads through some very attractive woods, including one segment that passes through a picturesque birch glade.
As you'll see from the next two photos, the mountaintop sort of lives up to its name, i.e. it appears 'burnt'!  Nonetheless, the 360 degree views from there are very nice, and likely would be stunning on a bright sunny day!
Looking NORTH across the 'burnt' tundra of Burnt Mountain toward the Bigelow Mountain Range
Looking SOUTH across the 'burnt' tundra of Burnt Mountain toward Spaulding Mountain, and Mt. Abraham
Of course, upon descending the mountain, the overcast conditions began to diminish (as you'll see in the next two photos)!  I suppose we've all had this experience, at one time or another!
Photo taken during my descent, as overcast conditions begin to diminish.  Vista includes Sugarloaf Mountain (foreground), and Crocker Mountain in the background to right of Sugarloaf.
Looking back at Burnt Mountain during my descent, as overcast conditions begin to diminish
To sum it up, both my wife and I thoroughly enjoyed our stay in this area of Maine and will likely be making return visits to seek out other treasures awaiting our discovery.